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Cover story
ODY
OBSESSION!
THE PROS, CONS AND
CHOICES OF COSMETIC
SURGERY
11
A A OSMETIC surgery is not gentle. It's about
* cutting, slicing, gouging, grasping, pulling,
blood, bruising and plastic drains left poking out
of wounds to allow fluids to escape from the
body after an operation.
•• I
I
I
I
I
. "Somewhere along the line the bizarre, scary,
J degrading practice of surgery on normal women
gamed respectability from the media and writers
such as Dr. Miriam Stoppard."
So wrote Australian writer Kaz Cooke in her book
'Real Gorgeous' (Allen & Unwin), a scathing view of the
pursuit of beauty.
No, most of us are not blase about plastic surgery. We'd
rather try stomach crunches before considering liposculpture,
or splather on alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) cream before
rushing for a chemical peel.
Even so, there are some bits we must admit nothing but
the knife will improve. Those saddlebags inherited from
grandma, for instance. And if you're flat-chested, we've yet
to hear of a cream that'll help you!
The science of plastic surgery is so advanced that almost
anything is possible. Most women opting for it begin with
simple operations, like to straighten their noses. If they like
what they see, they go on to improve other bits. One surgeon
tells of a nondescript bank teller who envied her glamorous
customers. She had her eyes reshaped, breasts augmented
and bulges liposculpted. Then, she chucked her bank job to
become a successful public relations officer! Her doctor savs.
MF
"If you think plastic surgery will make you confident, fine.
But if you're doing it to keep your husband from straying,
forget it."
And you can feel confident about almost any part of your
body today. But here are the popular ones (and their pitfalls):
EYES RIGHT!
To most of us, beautiful eyes are big and almond-shaped.
A prominent plastic surgeon says, "We tell patients it's not
always possible to recreate somebody else's eyes for them.
We can only augment what you already have."
The youngest patient one doctor had was a 12-year-old
girl—she too wanted long, doe-shaped eyes, like her friends.
But most patients are more realistic. They might admire
Aishwarya Rai's eyes, but they know theirs will never look
like hers.
Older women usually want to smoothen out lines, remove
fat and tighten loose skin that makes eyes look baggy and
droopy. Called blepheroplasty, this is done by removing fat
and excess skin from incisions made in the natural fold of the
upper lid and just below the lashes of the lower lid. A
ropore plaster is put on
a week to prevent
infections. Bandaging has
to be done regularly and
care should be taken that
the area doesn't get wet.
The sutures are removed
after a week.
WATCH OUT!
*
Uncontrolled
bleeding may lead to a
blood clot. If severe, this
can compress the eyeball
and result in visual
problems.
* Infection is a danger
patients face when they
go to beauticians who,
doctors feel, are still doing
what only doctors should
cutting and stitching.
•
WHO NOSE BEST?
In the '70s, American women wanted perky, cute noses.
Now, the classic Paulina Porizkova and Grace Kelly profiles
are more fashionable.
Incisions are made inside the nostrils to reduce the width
of the nose. The profile is then shaved or cut to form a
narrower bridge. Asian noses, generally, need building up —
a silicone implant is inserted to create a bridge and raise the
nose. Or a piece of the patient's own cartilage or bone
is grafted on. The nose is packed with gauze to retain its shape.
You might have to visit the hospital every alternate day for
removal and refitting of the plaster. And don't be afraid if
you find yourself breathing through your mouth! You won't
be able to tell how your new nose will look until at least four
months after surgery (when all the swelling is gone).
WATCH OUT!
* Bone thickening: Bone that is filed or cut may thicken,
J2 ■ TEMINA APRIL 15.1997 ■
.but it's impossible to tell by how much. Some patients
even need follow-up surgery to trim excess thickening
after healing.
* Heavy bleeding is bad news. It's normal for a little blood
or discharge to ooze out of your nose for a few days after the
operation. Anything more needs your doctor's attention.
’■ You will have to bear with the discomfort of blue-black
eyes and a stuffy nose.
BIGGER OR BUST
Breast implants faced so much bad press a few years ago
that the busiest surgeons went from doing two breast
augmentations a week to barely one a month. Now that the
scare has died down, the numbers have risen to one per week.
The silicone implant scare, doctors aver, is 'the great
American hoax'. There has been no evidence of silicone giving
rise to cancer. And silicone is used in testicular implants
and sutures, and also in coating surgical sutures. So, they
argue: Why did the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA)
concentrate on (panning) silicone breast implants?
American defenders of silicone implants also ask why the
FDA has not recalled other
silicone devices like
artificial joints (which
make up the largest use of
silicone in the body) and
pacemakers. Canadian
plastic surgeon Lloyd
Carlsen in an interview in
'Allure' (a magazine), said,
"A diabetic, taking one
insulin injection a day for
over 20 years, will have
introduced as much
silicone into her body as a
patient with a ruptured gel
implant."
But the FDA still
prohibits silicone breast
implants for cosmetic
surgery until more studies
prove its efficiency.
In Singapore, the
problem isn't so much silicone implants as silicone injections
(administered by unqualified people). Injected silicone turns
into rock hard lumps, which are difficult to check for cancer
and may hurt. Sometimes, in doing away with them, the
breast itself has to be removed!
Usually a four-hour procedure, it takes about two weeks
for the pain to subside. During this time, the breast is
bandaged. Sutures can be removed after a week, though the
area remains quite tender. The patient needs to take rest.
Saline, silicone or vegetable?
Although doctors say patients can choose either saline Or
silicone, they recommend silicone, agreeing with the woman
who said, "Saline breasts feel like water balloons."
Besides, silicone has been in use for over 30 years now.
And doctors are reasonably confident of results. The third
alternative is a vegetable oil implant, but doctors hesitate to
use it until more research proves its efficiency.
WATCH OUT!
* Capsular contracture: Your breasts may harden if a thick,
fibrous tissue forms around them. Newer implants, however,
have a textured surface, resulting in less hardening. Some
doctors prefer to put implants under the muscle — this helps
reduce capsule formation; the muscle layer protects implants
and helps mask any irregularity.
* Leaking: Implants sometimes leak. Often, the gel remains
within the fibrous capsule that develops naturally around the
implant. But if the capsule tears (due to injury), the silicone
may move beyond the breast, forming lumps (which must
be removed). Saline implants are more likely to leak over time.
* Mammograms are difficult: Implants are opaque to Xrays. So, it's difficult to monitor the underlying breast tissue.
For mammography purposes, it is better that the implant be
under, rather than over, the chest wall muscle.
FAT HOPES!
Liposculpture involves the insertion of a cannula (a thin,
hollow metal tube) through a small incision in the skin,
through which the fat is sucked away. The procedure allows
you to thin just about any
part — chin or cheeks, even
regular fat areas like the
tummy and thighs! It's
about spot trimming,
rather than all-round
slimming.
* When you diet, your
fat cells shrink, lying in
wait to fill up again when
you overeat. Liposculpture
removes fat cells, including
the genetically determined
ones, which dieting doesn't
reduce. But liposculpture
doesn't make you thin for
life. Undergoing one still
means you have to be
disciplined and watch
your weight!
WATCH OUT!
* Traditional liposculp
ture results in so much blood loss that some patients require
blood transfusions. Most doctors now recommend tumescent
liposculpture: The area to be treated is injected with a special
solution to make the fatty tissue tumesce (or swell up). This
solution numbs the area and shrinks capillaries, minimising
blood loss.
* Going too deep: A surgeon has to be careful not to go
deeper than the fat layer. If the cannula goes through the
muscle of, say, the tummy, the intestines could get punctured.
* Scarring is, generally, minimal but if your skin is flaccid,
you could end up with dimpling. The ideal candidate for
liposculpture would be under 50 with good skin tone.
* Liposculpture on your abdomen and hips requires
wearing a girdle for about three weeks after surgery.
IRONING OUT WRINKLES
There are two ways to get at wrinkles: Plump them up
temporarily with collagen or peel them away.
Collagen is the fibrous protein that holds our skin, bones,
blood vessels and tendons together. With age, collagen
weakens, resulting in everything from loose skin to
lax bowels.
To correct wrinkles (caused due to weakening of collagen),
doctors inject the protein (from specially bred cows) into the
skin to fill out acne scars, lip lines, crow's feet and frown
or smile lines.
Some doctors prefer using the patient's own fat (instead
of collagen). One's own fat is likely to stay longer than
collagen. This can be extracted from a number of places —
the hips, for instance. Fat is also used to smoothen wrinkled
hands.
WATCH OUT!
* Collagen treatment is expensive (as much as Rs. 21,000
for one cubic centimetre of collagen, which disappears in six
to nine months). Which means you will need to go in for the
process repeatedly.
* You need a high pain threshold. The needle used for
injecting fat is huge because fat cells are big. And if your
surgeon is inexperienced
or the area hasn't been
kneaded properly, the fat
won't be well distributed,
leaving
you
with
bumpy skin.
You can also try
chemical peels, which are
used for refreshing
dull complexions to
diminishing wrinkles. (See
'PEEL 'EM OFF!')
* Deep chemical peels
are serious business.
Expect almost unbearable
stinging, burning pain
and a swollen face. Also,
the pigmentation of your
face will never match
your body. Besides, you'll
have to stay out of the sun
— forever, if possible.
GETTING A FACE LIFT
A face lift involves more than just pulling up
or removing loose skin. Surgeons now go below the
skin, remove fat and pull together tissue, to create
a sculpted look you weren't born with!
You can have a lower face lift to smooth away jowls, and
the loose skin around your neck and mouth. In the process,
the fat is sucked out from under your chin, and the skin is
pulled up through cuts at the hairline area near the ears. A
brow or coronal lift clears furrows on your forehead or
corrects drooping eyelids. This is done by an incision on your
scalp, through which the skin from the forehead and scalp is
pulled up and trimmed.
Scarring is considerably reduced with an endoscopic face
lift. Here, an endoscope is inserted through a small cut, which
enables the surgeon to work more easily. So, instead of a cut
■ FEMINA APRIL 15. 1997 ■ 13
as long as a hairband (for a forehead lift), three to five small
cuts are made. But you need to ask your doctor whether this
will work for you. If you have baggy skin, a traditional face
lift would be better.
WATCH OUT!
* A loo-tight face lift: There are some horror stories
like that of the woman whose face lift left her with a
permanent grin!
* Be prepared to look a fright right after surgery. You'll
start looking near norma! only after the swelling goes down
(about three or four weeks after surgery). The cheek areas in
front of your ears and the sides of your neck will be numb for
months. A brow lift will leave your head feeling squeezed —
hell for women prone to migraines! You'll also have less hair
and lots of stitches — so no lifting anything heavy!
SAVE FACE WITHOUT SURGERY
Attempting to resurface the skin (as opposed to lifting)
presents its own potential
pitfalls. Chemical peels,
for instance, can leave
the skin with hyperMjmentation or a slightly
artificial, white and waxy
appearance. Dermabra
sion is the epidermal
equivalent of being sand
blasted with a Black &
Decker power tool!
But there's hope yet!
Avoiding the inevitable
effects of ageing does not
necessarily mean resorting
to the knife. Some of the
easy ways:
LASER
RESURFACING
Dr. Saul Braun, a
plastic and reconstructive
surgeon, says that laser
surfacing is one of most exciting recent breakthroughs in
IRield. Previously, lasers (not to be confused with the
beauticians' soft laser) were sensitive to pigments and better
suited for the removal of skin marks and blemishes like
birthmarks and tattoos.
The newest software-controlled carbon dioxide laser
vaporises skin cells without affecting adjacent cells. It
also rejuvenates ageing skin by tightening or shrinking
the collagen and encouraging new collagen formation
in the dermis.
The plastic surgeon regulates the depth of penetration
into the cell, layer by layer, within a fraction of a millimetre.
This means the laser can be used to treat the most delicate
of facial areas.
One benefit of laser treatment is that it can be performed
under local anaesthesia, which reduces health risks
considerably. The treatment is swift and accurate because the
surgeon can see exactly what he is doing — there is no blood
to cloud the image, as in the case of conventional surgery.
14 ■ FEMINAAPPtllS. I9W«
As this treatment is new, no fixed price ranges are available
as yet, but estimated costs are put at between Rs. 22,500 and
Rs. 27,000 (for the whole face).
WATCH OUT!
* Lengthy recuperation: Laser treatment is definitely no
quick fix. Results are instantaneous but recuperation can be
lengthy. In most cases, the skin is red and very sensitive for
upto two months!
As with all radical skin therapies, laser treatment can cause
deep scarring, if not performed correctly. So, look for a plastic
surgeon who has the relevant experience.
PEEL'EM OFF!
Chemical peels have launched a new era in retexturing
— the process removes the superficial layers of the skin
chemically, improving its texture. Thus, the skin looks softer
and radiant, though the procedure doesn't remove wrinkles.
But be very cautious when you decide to have a peel. Make
sure you know exactly
what side effects to
anticipate.
Peels
fall
into
three basic categories,
depending on the kind of
solution used and its
depth. Peels consist of
glycolic and lactic acids,
both alpha hydroxy acids
(the least complicated
chemicals), and are
available in concentra
tions from about 10 per
cent in salons and upto 70
per cent at a clinic. Most
salons use them to
improve dry skin, dull
complexions and acne.
THE SUPERFICIAL
PEEL: In some cases, fine
lines can be diminished,
although drastic results,
like removal of pitted scars or deep wrinkles, should not be
expected. Your skin will tingle during the procedure, but,
usually, it's painless. After a few days of dryness, the
improvement will be quite evident: The pores will be less
visible and pigmentation marks seem lighter.
You can have monthly lunch-time peels and keep your
skin clear with a glycolic acid lotion.
WATCH OUT!
When higher percentage concentrations are used, cases of
light scarring may occur and your skin could become
hypersensitive to sun. So, sunscreen is a must thereafter.
THE MEDIUM PEEL: Using trichloroacetic acid (TCA)
in 20 or 35 per cent concentrations is considered a medical
procedure. An oral sedative is very often needed to dull the
burning sensation. Once the peel has been completed, the
skin needs to be cooled with compresses. Wrinkles arc
(supposedly) diminished and pigmentation is lightened. In
some cases, depending on the potency of the concentration,
the skin can blister and form scales. Tire healing process takes
two to six weeks, although you should be able to wear make
up after about one.
WATCH OUT!
Sunscreen is absolutely essential. You could be
permanently scarred and hyper-pigmented.
THE DEEP PEEL: Phenol, a component of the disinfectant
carbolic acid, is used in concentrations of upto 88 per cent. A
general anaesthetic is sometimes prescribed because the
procedure is so painful!
Phenol is so toxic and penetrates so deep that you'll have
to take a couple of weeks off from work until the redness and
scabs go away! In fact, because this treatment is so toxic, the
patient is hooked onto a heart monitor in the event of heart
palpitations. Being a risky
procedure, it'snot advisable
for people who suffer from
heart, kidney or liver
conditions.
Remember also that you
may not be able to go out for
two weeks after the
operation. Theskin whitens
at first, then reddens,
eventually forming scabs,
which can be covered with
make-up. One phenol peel
should last you a lifetime.
INJECTIONS
In the search for youthful
skin, people resort to drastic
measures to achieve results
that last as temporarily as
for four to five months.
Botox, a purified strain of
botulinum toxin (a neuro
toxic similar to what you
might find in contaminated
foodstuffs) is injected into
certain facial muscles to
paralyse them into a more
youthful, line-free look.
Originally developed to
correct squints, doctors
noticed that the wrinkles
around the eyes appeared
soothed and relaxed after its
use. Subsequently, it took off
in Australia and in the US as a means of keeping the effects of
time at bay. Botox is a registered medical product and can
only be administered as a medical procedure by a plastic
surgeon. It costs approximately between Rs. 2,700 and
Rs. 4,500. Proceed with caution, and be sure to ask for referrals
from satisfied customers.
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MICROCURRENTS OR FACIAL
TONING
Non surgical face lifting — using electric microcurrents,
either as a corrective or preventative measure — has proved
remarkably successful in the US. The skin is (supposedly)
toned and lifted, as sagging muscles are stimulated and
wrinkles are softened, when microcurrents are applied to
particular facial areas.
A complete treatment sequence consisting of about 10
sessions and three stages costs about Rs. 13,500 — each
session lasts more or less an hour. The current used is
extremely low and there's no tingling; it feels like a gentle,
relaxing facial massage performed with two metal rods.
The relaxation phase, (the first stage), stimulates the
lymph drainage system, introducing a fresh supply of blood
to the cells while renioving toxins. Then follows a muscle
stimulation phase, which boosts the cells' metabolism. The
third stage, a bioenergetic stimulation phase, works on the
shiastsu points of the face.
Results of microcur
rents are temporary, but
Dr. Saul Braun feels this is
caused by current induced
oedema and a slight
swelling of the skin, and
not muscle stimulation.
There is no evidence
whatsoever to suggest that
there are any long term or
permanent effects.
' WATCH OUT!
* Don't get treated by
unlicensed practitioners
since they can be harmful.
Facial toning machines can
cause pain, even burn the
skin, when used by
untrained or unskilled
operators.
COSMETIC CUB
OR NOT?
There may be orthodox
opinions and harsh views
about plastic surgery, but
we also have Dr. Miriam
Stoppard, British doctor,
writer and TV personality,
who says, "With modern
operations and new
techniques of cosmetic
surgery, it is possible to re
contour almost any part of
the body if you are unhappy with the shape you've got. What
you have to weigh is the trade-off: Are you the kind of
woman who wants to look good in clothes or do you wish
to be scar-free naked?"
Ideally, like all surgery, cosmetic nips, sucks and tucks
should be reserved for when all else — make-up or exercise
— fails. If you are terrified of pain and dread general
anaesthesia, surgery isn't for you — maybe a glycolic
acid peel.
Ultimately, your decision should be based on what
makes YOU happy, not what makes anyone else happy.
Improving your looks never won vou love anywav!
FIVE REAL LIFE STORIES OF WOMEN WHO DARED! ’DAISY, 45
"A year ago, just before my 45th birthday, my husband said: 'You’ve looked
after three children, you deserve something nice. What would you like?’
“Too much exposure to the sun and the weight fluctuation of having three children
had taken their toll on me. I'd started looking haggard and wanted Io go in for a
full face lift. I simply wanted to look the way I did 10 years ago.
“My friends thought I was mad, though they acknowledged I was brave. My
husband was really supportive and even went to the doctor with me.
“The doctor suggested I have cheek implants. Made of the clear plastic material
used to make heart valves, they’d make me look more youthful and are supposed
to last forever. I also got my eyelids lifted, my jowls removed — by sucking out the
fat and tightening the skin around my jaw — and had some dermabrasion done
around my mouth (to remove the lines).
"I risked easy bruising because I was fair, but I had utmost confidence in my
surgeon. I ended up spending five days in hospital after the operation because the anaesthetic made me sick.
And I looked an absolute mess: I was black and blue from my chest bone to the top of my forehead.
“I lay in an elevated position for five weeks and couldn’t go out for a month. I had to undergo an ultrasound
treatment daily for weeks (to stimulate my circulation), because the bruising caused numbness.
“But I wouldn't hesitate Io urge people to go in for plastic surgery. If you are bothered about the way you look,
do something about it.
“As for me, I don't look tired anymore. I don’t wear much make-up — I don’t feel the need to! And I can face my
reflection in the glass fable while cleaning it (I used to dread it previously). My kids don’t mind me picking them up
fro^^chool — they think I look great!”
*SHEELA,51
“I don’t mind growing old, but I draw the line at looking ugly. One day, I looked at the mirror and thought
my face didn’t look right. So, I decided to get my old face back — even though my husband insisted
I looked beautiful.
Since I ve always been physically fit (I exercise every day), the doctor said I was a good candidate (for the
surgery). As we talked, he kept staring at me — observing my facial expressions to note which muscles I
used more. He also gave me a booklet to read, so there wouldn't be any nasty surprises.
“A week later, I had the operation. I still remember my husband's shocked expression when I came out of
the operation theatre — all bruised, swollen and bandaged.
"But, surprisingly, I felt no pain that night. If was only a slight discomfort — and I had to sleep with my head
propped up for weeks, to help reduce the swelling.
“What I hated was that I couldn't wash my hair until the stitches were removed. It was all knotted and looked
quite dreadful. I stayed indoors for about a week. When I finally mustered up courage to go out for a hair cut
(to complete my transformation), I hid behind dark glasses, looking a fright. A woman even asked my
hairdresser if my husband had been bashing me!
"My husband and I could see a daily improvement. My cheekbones seemed to stand out again. Then, I
changed my wardrobe completely. I took looking after myself seriously — and I confess I was thrilled with
the result. It's changed my life and given me back my self-esteem. It's been money spent usefully."
WHAT YOU'RE LIKELY TO PAY
FEES depend on the complications involved and the
surgeon’s experience. Given below is a broad range of
the cost that you might incur:
Double eyelids
Rs. 24,000 - Rs. 48,000
Eye lifts and removing eyebags
Rs. 36,000 - Rs. 48,000
Breast augmentation
Rs. 72,000 - Rs. 1,44,000
Rhinoplasty (nose augmentation) Rs. 36,000 - Rs. 1,20,000
Face lift
Rs. 72,000 - Rs. 1,92,000
Skin peels (AHAs to phenol)
Rs. 14,400 - Rs. 48,000
Dermabrasion
Rs. 9,600 - Rs. 48,000
Liposculpture
Rs. 36,000 - Rs. 72,000
Tummy tuck
Rs. 60,000 - Rs. 1,44,000
Filling wrinkles with fat or collagen Rs. 19,200 - Rs. 48,000
Mole/wart removal
Rs. 7,200 - Rs. 12,000
Creating a chin
Rs. 48,000 - Rs. 72,000
(•NAVES have BEEN changed !O PROIECI IDENTITIES)
IS ■ FEMINA APRIL 15.IWI
Fax (22) 283 5700 <
’ NINETTE, 31
“WORKING for a group of doctors
specialising in cosmetic surgery,
I'm quite used Io seeing the
transformations they bring about
every day. When my marriage broke
up, I felt I needed a confidence
boost, and I decided to do
something about my nose.
"I’ve always hated it, especially in
photographs. I wanted the bumps
smoothened and the end shortened.
I wanted it to be attractive and in proportion to my face.
"My surgeon suggested I get my chin trimmed, which
was a little long, to make my face more proportionate.
I agreed. I didn’t want Io know how the operation was
done — if I did, I wouldn’t have gone through with it!
"I was excited before going in for surgery — it was rather
like going to buy a new dress for a special occasion. My
only concern was being under a general anaesthetic.
"Waking up was horrendous — I felt so claustrophobic.
Icouldn't breathe through my nose because of the cast
on it; my jaw was taped shut because of the stitches
in my mouth. I couldn't sleep
that night.
"On the third day after my
operation, my cast was removed.
As soon as my doctor took it off,
I could see the difference (even
though I was told it took about
three months for the swelling to
settle down completely).
"I took two weeks off from work
because I was extremely bruised
around the eyes for three days after surgery. Later,
I camouflaged it with make-up, and lived in the fear
that someone might bump my nose — which remained
tender for about three months. My three-year-old
daughter bumped it once or twice and it wasn’t pleasant!
"Today, when people tell me I was mad to go in for
surgery, I show them an old photograph of mine. They
agree I look much better now. I recommend the surgery
because it improves your whole look. As for the pain, it’s
a little like having a baby. After some time, you forget
about it. I would do it all over again.”
___________________________________ * SHILPA, 33___________________________________
"EVER since my youth, I was a typical example of someone whose lipstick ‘bled’ into the fine lines around
her mouth. And about three years ago, I developed a cold sore which damaged the side of my upper lip, so
much so that it lost its definition. No one else noticed, but if bothered me.
"I’d been having collagen injections to correct it, but I wanted something permanent. Also, being a beauty
therapist, I know people look younger with fuller lips. The new implants seemed a perfect solution, because
they would last forever.
“The procedure involves threading strips of a material — which look like dental floss, and have been used
for years to repair damaged cardiac arteries — into the edge of the lips, in sections. Two strips were put on
either side to create definition and restore the line on my upper lip, and one across the middle of the upper
and lower lips, to create a subtle, fuller effect. You needn’t go to a hospital for the implants — they can be
done at your doctor’s clinic.
"After examining my lips, my doctor talked Io me at length. The whole procedure took only about an hour.
The material is threaded through small incisions, which don’t leave a scar.
“Once home, I applied ice to reduce the swelling, which lasted a few days. And on the third day after the
operation, I was back at work. About a week later, the implants had completely settled down.
“I’m absolutely delighted with the result, especially as my lipstick no longer 'bleeds’. It was well worth
the while.”
A WORD OF WARNING
Check whether the surgeon is accredited to a major
LASER resurfacing is a relatively new phenomenon. 4.
Before you consider going in for it, here are some hospital. Hospitals can give you a list of names.
' Plastic surgeons give you some ways Io whittle down
suggestions:
' Consult your GP — anaesthetic treatment is not suitable your choices:
1. Don’t believe a doctor who glosses over everything.
for everyone.
She must be honest enough to tell you the risks and
• Make sure your surgeon is well qualified:
1.
If you’re considering a paramedical treatment (i.e. whether what you expect is achievable.
high-percentage peels or a laser treatment), ask for a * Be prepared to accept the risks, however minor.
list of patient referrals and obtain recommendations from " Be realistic. Sometimes things go wrong even at the
previous clients. Any therapist who evades the referrals hands of the most experienced surgeon.
’ Think about whether the charges are reasonable, based
is hiding something!
2.
Check whether your surgeon has comprehensive on the doctor’s experience and the results she is reputed
to give.
training in the use of lasers.
3.
Word of mouth remains one of the safest ways of ' Use your gut instinct. If you're not comfortable with the
doctor or her proposals, get a second opinion.
tracking down reputable practitioners.
(•NAMES HAVE BEEN CHANGED TO PROTECT IDENTITIES)
20 ■ FEMINA APRIL 15.1W ■
’ AYESHA, 28
Dabur Vatika Woman
of the Fortnight
Name
: Raji Krishnan
Age
i 25 yrs.
Occupation
i Working as a secretary in a reputed
company in Oman
Hobbles
: Reading, listening to music
Favourite Singer
i KJ.Jesudas
Favourite Film
: Hindustani (Indian)
Beauty Secret
: Natural and herbal forms of beauty
care and for my hair, 1 use the one
and only Dabur Vatika Hair Oil.
Quote
: "I used to have a serious dandruff
problem but thanks to the regular
use of Dabur Vatika HairOil, my hair
has become healthy. Because it
contains Henna, Amla and Lemon
which make my hair strong."
If you also use Dabur Vatika
Hair Oil, and want to become the
next Dabur Vatika Woman ofthe
Fortnight, send your details,
along with a photograph to :
Dabur Vatika Woman Contest,
"WORKING in the glamour industry, it was very
important that I remain in shape. Not that I was doing
badly. But personally, I’d always wanted slimmer hips.
So, I decided to go in for liposuction.
"My family wasn't too keen about my decision. My dad
said, 'Why do you want to do if? You’re doing well —
what difference does if make?' Buf I insisted. It was a
matter of personal satisfaction.
"I consulted a surgeon and we marked out the area I
wanted him to work on. He explained I would have to
spend a day in hospital after the procedure, and that I’d
have to wear a corset for quite some time. The operation
would cost me Rs. 30,000.
“On the day of the operation, I was PETRIFIED! I kept
asking myself if I was doing the right thing. Fortunately,
in the theatre, I wasn't aware of a thing. I was out like a
light — even before they'd counted to 10 after
administering general anaesthesia — and stayed that
way throughout the operation.
"When I woke up, I was in pain. I found I couldn’t even
go to the loo comfortably, forget taking a bath, because
of the stitches on my hips.
"I was sore from the waist down for a month — it was
literally blue and black — because of blood clots. During
that time, I wasn’t allowed to run. In addition, I had to
wear a corset at all times (even while sleeping). You bet
it was uncomfortable! It was a lot of pain for the pleasure.
“In my case, the pain didn’t even result in pleasure. The
doctor had omitted to tell me that I had to be careful
with my diet, even after the liposuction. I went on a
binge — I was so kicked that my hips were now the shape
I wanted them to be! As a result, I put on weight — on
my hips and everywhere else. What’s worse is that, now,
I'm back to square one — with scars (yes, they are very
much there), toughened skin and some ugly undulations
on my hips. Maybe those scars are a result of my
negligence — I didn’t ask if massaging in something
would have helped prevent them. So they are a part of
my life now — I have no choice but to wear long tops.
“I wouldn’t advise anyone to have liposuction
done, unless it were absolutely critical. Not that it’s bad;
there’s no better solution for a spot problem. Maybe
I didn't take enough post-operative care. But it’s certainly
no panacea..."
Your
fill year
your ski
Vatika
and lifeh
Femina, Post Box No. 7326,
New Delhi 110 065.
you nee
will not
B EC A
(■NAMES HAVE BEEN CHANGED TO PROTECT IDENTITIES)
PC-SPIRS 3.3g
MEDLINE (R) 1/95-1/96
MEDLINE <R) 1/95-1/96 usage is subject, to the terms and conditions of the
Subscription and License Agreement and the applicable Copyright and
intellectual property protection as dictated by the appropriate laws of your
country and/or by International Convention.
1 of 17
Marked Record
TI: Measurement of epidermal moisture content by magnetic resonance imaging:
assessment of a hydration cream.
AU: Franconi-F; Akoka-S; Buesnet.-J; Baret-JM; Dersigny-D; Breda-B; Muller-C;
Beau-P
AD: Lahoratoire de Biophysique Cellulaire et Resonance Magnetique Nucleaire,
Facuite de Medecine, Tours, France.
SD: Br-J—Dermatol» 1995 Jun; 132(6): 913-7
LA: ENGLISH
AB: The moisture content of the epidermis was measured by magnetic resonance
imaging (MRI), using transverse relaxation time. The spatial resolution was 86
microns, allowing a quantitative, accurate and localized determination of
variations in epidermal hydration. The wrists of 15 volunteers were studied
before and after application of a hydration cream. Results showed an increase
of 15% of epidermal T2 after application of the cream. Moisture content curves
varied according to different degrees of skin dryness. This study demonstrates
that MRI is a useful tool in evaluation of epidermal hydration.
2 of 17
Marked Record
TI: Are opera-house artistes afflicted with contact allergy to colophony and
cosmetics?
AU: Farm-G; Karlberg-AT; Liden-C
AD: Department of Occupational Dermatology, National Institute of Occupational
Health, Soina, Sweden.
SO: Contact-Dermatitis. 1995 May: 32(5): 273-80
LA: ENGLISH
AB: The frequencies of cosmetics intolerance and contact allergy to colophony
were investigated among 116 singers and dancers and 16 make-up artists.
Participants were interviewed, examined and patch tested with a standard series
and materials from the opera house. Commo,g skin lesions were found in 1/3 of
participants and more than 50% had a history of intolerance to cosmetics.
Colophony gave positive patch test reactions in only 3 subjects. The prevalence
of positive patch test reactions tc< fragrance mix and balsam of Peru was about
the same as among dermatitis patients generally. Contact allergy to colophony
did not seem to be a problem regarding cosmetics.
3 of 17
Marked Record
TI: Assay of vitamin A palmitate and vitamin E acetate in cosmetic creams and
lotions by supercritical fluid extraction and HPLC.
AU: Scalia-S; Renda-A; Ruberto-G; Bonina-F; Menegatti-E
AD: Istituto di Chimica Farmaceutica, Universita di Catania, Italy.
SO: J-Pharm-Biomed-Anal . 1995 Mar; 13(3): 273-7
LA: ENGLISH
AB: The use of supercritical fluid extraction (SFE) as an alternative to liquid
extraction was examined for the isolation of vitamin A palmitate and vitamin E
acetate from cream and lotion preparations . Investigation of the factors
controlling the extraction efficiency in SFE indicated that vitamin recoveries
were affected mainly by the extraction pressure and by the degree of sample
dispersion. The vitamins were analysed by high—performance liquid
chromatography after a 30-min extraction of the cosmetic product with
supercritical carbon dioxide at 40 degrees C and at a pressure of 250 atm.
Compared with conventional liquid extraction SFE. produced slightly lower
recoveries <> 91.6%) but afforded a more effective purification of the cosmetic
matrices. Moreover, SFE minimised sample handling and the use of harmful
solvents and provided mild extraction conditions for the analysis of the labile
vitamins. Vitamin E acetate and vitamin A palmitate were assayed in commercial
cream and lotion formulations using the proposed SFE technique.
' 4 of 17
Marked Record
TI:
AU:
SO:
LA:
Skin reactions to topical aminophylline £ letter!
Simon-PA; Terzian-CG
JAMA. 1995 Jun 14? 273122): 1737-8
ENGLISH
5 of 17
Marked Record
TI:
AU:
AD:
SO:
LA:
Patient compliance: enhancing clinician abilities and strategies.
Draeios—ZK
Bowman Gray School of Medicine, High Point, NC, USA.
J-Am-Acad-Dermatol. 1995 May; 3215 Pt 3): S42-8
ENGLISH
& of 17
Marked Record
TI" Influence of metabolism in skin on dosimetry after topical exposure.
AU: Bronaugh—RL; Collier-SW; Macpherson-SE ; Kraeling-ME
AD: Cosmetics Toxicology Branch, Food and Drug Administration, Washington, DC
20204, USA.
SO: Environ—Heai'th-Perspect. 1994 Dec; 102 Suppl 11: 71-4
LA: ENGLISH
AB: Metabolism of chemicals occurs in skin and therefore should be taken into
account when one determines topical exposure dose. Skin metabolism is difficult
to measure in vivo because biological specimens may also contain metabolites
from other tissues. Metabolism in skin during percutaneous absorption can be
studied with viable skin in flow-through diffusion cells. Several compounds
metabolized by microsomal enzymes in skin (benzolaJpyrene and 7-ethoxycoumarin)
penetrated human and hairless guinea pig skin predominantly unmetabolized.
However, compounds containing a primary amino group (p-aminobenzoic acid,
benzocaine, and azo color reduction products) were substrates for
acetyltransferase activity in skin and were substantially metabolized during
absorption.. A physiologically based pharmacokinetic model has been developed
with an input equation, allowing modeling after topical exposure. Plasma
concentrations in the hairless guinea pig were accurately predicted for the
model compound, benzoic acid, from in vitro absorption, metabolism, and other
pharmacokinetic parameters.
7 of 17
Marked Record
TI: Digital image analysis of microcomedonesAU: Pierard-GE; Pierard-Franchimont-C; Goffin-V
AD: Department of Dermatopathology, University of Liege, Belgium.
SO; Dermatology. 1995; 190(2): 99-103
LA: ENGLISH
AB: OBJECTIVE: Developing a technique for quantifying the number and size of
follicular casts and microcomedones . BACKGROUND: There is no human testing that
is’validated up to now to predict comedogenesis and comedolysis following
topical applications of drugs or cosmetics. DESIGN: Evaluations are performed
by digital image analysis of cyanoacrylate follicular biopsies. The effects of
two topical products are compared. RESULTS: Microcomedogenesis was disclosed
after a 2-month period of application of a cosmetic product aimed at treating
acne. Microcomedolysis occurred following usage of a topical preparation
containing benzoyl peroxide 57. and miconazole nitrate 77.. CONCLUSION: Digital
image analysis of skin surface biopsies is a sensitive method documenting
microcomedo formation and dissolution.
8 of 17
Marked Record
TI: Contact allergy to kojic acid in skin care products.
Alls Nakagawa-M; Kawai-K; Kawai-K
AD: Kawai Medical Laboratory for Cutaneous Health, Kyoto, Japan.
SO: Contact-Dermatitis. 1995 Jan; 32(1): 9-13
LA: ENGLISH
AB: Kojic acid (5-hydroxy-2-(hydroxymethyl)-4-pyrone), a fungal metabolic
product, has increasingly been used as a skin-depigmenting agent in skin care
products marketed in Japan since 1988. In order to determine its frequency of
sensitization, during 1 year from October 199.2 to September 1993, we performed
patch testing with it in 220 female patients with suspected cosmetic—related
contact dermatitis. Of the 220 patients, 8 used at least 1 skin care product
containing kojic acid, 5 of whom reacted to kojic acid as well as to 1 or more
their own products containing 17. kojic acid, but not to their other products
not containing it, and 3 of whom were negative to kojic acid and all their own
products. Patch testing with kojic acid in the remaining group of 212 patients,
who had not previously used skin care products containing it, was negative
without exception. The 5 kojic-acid-sensitive patients, aged 34 to 58 years,
developed facial dermatitis 1-12 months after starting application of
kojic-acid-containing products. Kojic acid is considered to have high
sensitizing potential, as a comparatively high frequency of contact sensitivity
was observed in patients using products containing it (5 out of 8).
9 of 17
Marked Record
TI: Kojic acid, a cosmetic skin whitening agent, is a slow-binding inhibitor of
catecholase activity of tyrosinase.
AU: Cabanes—J; Chazarra-6; Garcia--Ca'rmona-F
AD: Departamento de Bioquimica y Biologia Molecular A, Facultad de Veterinaria,
Universidad de Murcia, Spain,
SO: J-Pharm-Pharmacol
1994 Dec; 46(12): 982-5
LA: ENGLISH
AB: It was found that kojic acid, which is used in cosmetics for its excellent
whitening effect, inhibits catecholase activity of tyrosinase in a
non-classical manner. A decrease in the initial velocity to a steady-state
inhibited velocity can be observed over a few minutes. This time-dependence,
which is unaltered by prior incubation of the enzyme with the inhibitor, is
consistent with a first-order transition. The kinetic data obtained correspond
to those for a postulated mechanism that involves the rapid formation of an
enzyme inhibitor complex that subsequently undergoes a relatively slow
reversible reaction. Kinetic, parameters characterizing this type of inhibition
were evaluated by means of nonlinear regression of product accumulation curves.
Marked Record
TI: Evaluation of the effects of cosmetic or dermo-pharmaceutical products on
cutaneous energy metabolism using the Episkin model of reconstructed epidermis.
AU: Buche-P; Violin—L; Girard-P
AD: Laboratoire DERMSCAN, Vi 1leurbanne, France.
SO: Cel 1-Biol-Toxicol. 1994 Dec; 10(5-6): 381-5
LA: ENGLISH
AB: This study was implemented to test the Episkin model of reconstructed
epidermis in the evaluation of the efficacy of cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical
products on cutaneous energy metabolism. The energy metabolism is evaluated by
measuring the concentration of intracellular ATP by a method using an
ultrasensitive bioluminescent reaction. The work presented compares results
obtained in reconstructed epithelium and monolayer primary cultures of human
keratinocytes. After application of a hydrosoluble product, the increase in
intracelluiar ATP is identical in a monolayer culture of keratinocytes (+239
+/- 18% versus control) and in Episkin (+248 +/- 21% versus control). An
emulsion was also tested on the two models. It is only possible to test the
emulsion at a dilution of under 0.05% on a keratinocyte culture, and this means
that the real efficacy of the product is underestimated (+145 +/- 18% versus
control). The three-dimensional model enables the application of the undiluted
emulsion, and the results show an increase in intracellular ATP of +420 +/- 80%
versus control: products in final formulation can be tested in normal
conditions of use.
11 of 17
Marked Record
TI: Conjunctival foreign body from a cosmetic facial scrub.
AU: Yamaguchi-T
AD: Department of Ophthalmology, St. Luke's International Hospital, Tokyo,
Japan.
SOs Am—J-Ophthalmol. 1995 Feb; 119(2); 237-9
LA: ENGLISH
AB; PURPOSE/METHODS; Foreign body sensation in four patients was caused by
particles from a cosmetic facial scrub that contained small plastic spheres
designed to abrade the skin. The particles were lodged in the superior
palpebral conjunctiva 2 to 3 mm from the eyelid margin. RESULTS/CONCLUSIONS:
Removal of the particles eliminated the foreign body sensation and there were
no lasting deleterious effects.
12 of 17
Marked Record
TI: Microbiological flora and nail polish: a brief report.
AU: Rayan-GM; Flournoy-DJ; Schlageter-P
AD: Baptist Medical Center, Oklahoma City, Oklahoma.
SO: J-Gkla—State-Med—Assoc. 1994 Nov; 87(11): 504-5
LAs? ENGLISH
AB: Removing nail polish and prosthetic nails from operating room (OR)
personnel prior to scrubbing and from patients prior to hand surgery is
recommended but not practiced in many hospitals. There is concern that nail
polish can act as a vehicle for the transfer of infectious agents. Thi's study
was designed to determine the incidence of microbiological flora of nail polish
in a clinical setting.
13 of 17
Marked Record
TI: Biological effects of cosmetic talc.
AU: Wehner-AP
AD: Biomedial and Environmental Consultants, Inc., Richland, WA 99352.
SO: Food-Chem-Toxicol . 1994 Dec; 32(12): 1173-84
LA: ENGLISH
AB: A review of the literature reveals two primary issues: (1) a weak, but not
causal, association of hygienic use of cosmetic talc and ovarian cancer; (2)
lung changes in animals exposed to talc aerosol concentrations that resulted in
lung overload. The evidentiary weight of the most significant of the
epidemiological and laboratory studies and their biological significance for
human risk assessment are briefly discussed. Publications describing
granulomatous lesions attributed to talc on surgical gloves, and consequences
of accidental inhalation of baby powder by infants are also reviewed. The
literature reviewed does not provide any convincing evidence that pure cosmetic
talc, when used as intended, presents a health risk to the human consumer.
14 of 17
Narked Record
Til Persistent light reaction with erythroderma caused by musk ambrette: a erase
report.
AU: Lan-LR; Lee-JY; Kao-HF; Wang-BJ; Chen-HC
AD: Department of Dermatology, National Cheng-Kung University Hospital, Tainan,
Taiwan, Republic of China.
SD: Cutis. 1994 Sep; 54(31: 167-70
LA: ENGLISH
AB: Persistent light reaction is an uncommon type of photodermatitis caused
mainly by musk ambrette, a synthetic fragrance material commonly used in foods
and cosmetics. Erythrodermic persistent light reaction is rare. We report a
case of erythroderma with underlying persistent light reaction due' to'musk
ambrette. A 71-year-old man showed a photodermatitis that waxed and waned for
five years before it became more persistent and finally evolved into.
erythroderma. Positive results of a photopatch test to musk ambrette and a low
minimal erythema dose to ultraviolet B were noted. A biopsy specimen of the
erythrodermic lesion revealed spongiotic dermatitis;. The erythroderma and
p<hotodermatitis responded to systemic steroids and psoralen/ultraviolet A
therapy (total dose: 90 J/cm7). We suggest that persistent light reaction be
included in the differential diagnosis of erythroderma.
TIs Cosmetics and contact lenses.
AU: Tlachac-CA
SO; Optom-Clin. 1994; 4(1): 35-45
LA: ENGLISH
AB: Cosmetics, as broadly defined, are used by almost all contact lens wearers
of both sexes. Because of the composition of various cosmetic products, contact
lenses can be soiled or damaged. The improper use of cosmetics can even cause
damage to the eye. More commonly, allergic reactions occur that can jeopardize
the continued wear. of.lenses. This paper reviews the complications that can
occur, the available treatment options, and the recommendations for the safe
and prudent use of cosmetics.
16 of 17
Marked Record
TI: Ability of laboratory methods to predict in-use efficacy of antimicrobial
preservatives in an experimental cosmetic.
AU:. Farrington-JK; Martz-EL; Wells-SJ; Ennis-CC; Holder-J; Levchuk-<JW; Avis-KE;
Hoffman—PS; Hitchins-AD; Madden->JM
AD: Schering-Plough Health Care Products, Memphis, Tennessee 38151.
SO: Appl-Environ—Microbiol. 1994 Dec; 60(12): 4553-8
LA: ENGLISH
AB: The abilities of nine antimicrobial systems to preserve an experimental
water-based cosmetic formulation were evaluated by six microbiological
challenge tests: the U.S. Pharmacopeia test; the British Pharmacopeia test; the
Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association test; the rapid screen test; the
sequential challenge test; and the post-use test. The antimicrobial systems
contained various combinations and amounts of two parabens and a quaternary
compound in order to provide a broad range of preservation. The results
obtained were compared with the abilities of the formulations to support
maintenance and growth of microorganisms in microfloras obtained from human
axilla areas and finger skin during an 8-week simulated in-use test. Without
statistical analysis all of the tests predicted the results obtained with
wel1-preserved or poorly preserved formulations. The rapid screen test was the
best test for predicting differences at intermediate levels of preservation.
Statistically, all of the tests were equivalent predictors of preservation
efficacy in the in-use test (P = 0.05). At the P - 0.10 level, only the U.S.
Pharmacopeia, British Pharmacopeia, rapid screen. Cosmetic, Toiletry, and
Fragrance Association tests were significantly predictive. The results of
prediction by a test, based on the preservative levels used,- agreed well with
the in-use test results (P = 0.011. A total of 20% of the formulations that
contained excessive microbial levels contained human axilla microorganisms. The
levels of preservation in failed products were similar to the levels of
preservation in unused controls.
' 17 of 17
Marked Record
TI: Possible link between anaphylactoid reactions to anaesthetics and chemicals
in cosmetics and biocides.
AU: Weston-A; Assem-ES
AD: Pharmacology Department, University College London, UK.
SO: Agents-Actions. 1994 Jun; 41 Spec No: C138-9
LAs ENGLISH
AB; Binding-inhibition studies involving human XgE antibody to suxamethonium,
SUX (from a patient with a near-fatal reaction), were performed with five
different quaternary ammonium compounds (QAC)s three common ingredients of
cosmetics and two commonly used disinfectants, cetrimide and benzalkonium. All
the five QAC showed immunological cross-reaction with SUX. In addition, at high
concentrations, they released histamine from basophils of normal subjects.
Thus, I3AC may be both sensitizers and histamine releasers.
kJH-
PC-SPIRS 3.38
MEDLINE (R)
1/96-1/97
MEDLINE (R) 1/96-1/97 usage is subject, to the terms and conditions of the
Subscription and License Agreement and the applicable Copyright and
intellectual property protection as dictated by the appropriate laws of your
country and/or by International Convention.
1 of S
Narked Record
TI: Adverse effects of cosmetics and toiletries reported .to the Swedish Medical
Products Agency 1989-1994.
AU: Berne-B; Bostrom-A; Grahnen-AF; Tammela-M
AD: Medical Products Agency, Uppsala, Sweden.
SO: Contact-Dermatitis. 1996 May; 34(5): 359-62
L A: ENGL ISH
AB: In Sweden, a cosmetic control system was introduced in 1989 at the Medical
Products Agency (MPA). It consists of a register of importers, manufacturers
and their products, and a voluntary adverse reaction reporting system identical
to that concerning drugs. Between 1989 and 1994, MPA evaluated 191 reports
concerning adverse effects of 253 cosmetics and toiletries. 90% of the reports
concerned women and the top—ranking product category was moisturizers, followed
by hair care products and nail products. The majority of the adverse effects
reported involved only the skin, and 90% were eczematous reactions. 70% of the
eczemas were classified as contact allergic, as patch tests were positive to
the product as is, and in 1/2 of these products, 1 or more relevant allergens
could be identified when tests were made with individual cosmetic ingredients.
The most common offending ingredients were fragrances,
toluenesulfonamide-formaldehyde resin and preservatives. The number of reports
is small in relation to the expected number of cosmetic adverse effects, which
can be explained by under—reporting. Efforts are being made to persuade Swedish
physicians to report mbre often.
2 of 8
Marked Record
£
TI: Sexually induced dermatoses.
AU: Gaffoor-PM
AD: Department of Dermatology, Hamad Medical Corporation, Doha, Qatar, Arabian
Gulf.
SO: Cutis. 1996 Apr; 57(4): 252-4
LA: ENGLISH
AB: Sexually induced dermatoses (SID) are conditions resulting from sexual
activity. Sometimes this can be modified by bacterial infection or systemic
disease. Many materials such as medications, cosmetics, perfumes, pads,
hygiene, sprays, condoms, etc, may cause sexually induced dermatoses in sexual
partners. Sexually induced dermatoses are noninfectious, self-limited
conditions.
•
3 of 8
Marked Record
TI:
AU:
SO:
LA:
Measurement of epidermal moisture content E.letter3
Querleux-B; Bittoun-J
Br-J-Dermatol. 1996 Jul; 135(1): 144-5
ENGLISH
4 of 8
Marked Record
TI: Application of triphenyltetrazolium chloride in microbial limit test of
pharmaceuticals and cosmetics.
AU: Ohara-MT; Saito-T
AD: Universidade de Sao Paulo, Faculdade de Ciencias Farmaceuticas,
Departamento de Farmacia, Brazil.
SO: ,J-ADAC-Int. 1995 Nov-Dec; 7B(6): 1525-9
LA: ENGLISH
AB: An alternative method was developed for counting viable microbial
contaminants in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics with insoluble materials and low
bioburden. The method uses triphenyltetrazolium chloride (TTC). The inhibitory
effect of TTC on microbial growth observed by others was eliminated by adding
it as an overlay, after incubation of sample in culture medium for 48 h. Six
samples of pharmaceutical suspensions and 6 samples of cosmetics were evaluated
by most-probable number (MPN) and pour-plate techniques with TTC in comparison
with MPN with subculturing. The equivalence between MPN technique with TTC and
subculturing was demonstrated for all samples and between pour-plate and
subculturing for 10 samples. The differences were probably due to some error
inherent in both techniques and not from application of TTC. Comparison of
coefficients of variation showed that plate countings were more precise than
the MPN method, as expected.
5 of 8
Marked Record
TI: Determination of 2—ethylhexyl 4-(N-methyl-N-nitrosami.no) benzoate in
commercial sunscreens and cosmetic products.
AU: Chou-HJ; Vates-RL; Havery-DC; Wenninger-JA
AD: U.S. Food and Drug Administration, Washington, DC 20204, USA.
SO: J-AOAC-Int. 1995 Nov-Dec; 78(6): 1378-83
LA: ENGLISH
AB: An analytical method has been developed for determination of 2-et.hylhexyl
4-(N-methyl—N-nitrosamino) benzoate (NMPABAD), a nitrosamine contaminant in
sunscreen products containing 2-ethylhexyl 4-(N,N-dimethylamino) benzoate
(F'adimate 0). The method involves extraction of NMPABAD by column
chromatography followed by liquid chromatographic separation and analysis wit a
nitric oxide detector. To confirm the presence of NMPABAD in sunscreen
products, the N-nitrosamine was synthesized and its structure was determined by
infrared spectrophotometry, nuclear magnetic resonance spectrometry, and mass
spectrometry (MS). For method validation, recovery studies were performed on a
commercial suntan lotion, cream, and gel. Recoveries of NMPABAD added to
representative test samples averaged 83%. The method has an estimated detection
limit of 30 ppb. The method was used to analyze 25 commercial cosmetic and
sunscreen products containing Padimate 0. Eleven products contained NMPABAD at
levels ranging from 160 to 21000 ppb. NMPABAD presence in 4 products was
confirmed by MS at levels > or = 4000 ppb. The highest levels of NMPABAD were
associated with products that contained the nitrite-releasing preservative
2-bromo-2-nitro—1,3-propanediol .
6 of 8
Marked Record
TI: Mercury poisoning associated with beauty cream—Texas, New Mexico, and
California, 1995-1996.
SO: MMWR-Morb-Mortal-Wkly—Rep. 1996 May 17; 45(19): 400-3
LA: ENGLISH
AB: The Texas Department of Health (TDH), New Mexico Department of Health
(NMDH), and San Diego County Health Department (SDCHD) recently investigated
three cases of mercury poisoning among persons who had used a beauty cream
produced in Mexico. The investigations implicated the beauty cream as the
source of the mercury. The cream, marketed as "Crema de Belleza—Manning,"
lists "calomel" (mercurous chloride) as an ingredient and was found to contain
6%-8% mercury by weight. This report summarizes the ongoing investigation of
these and other possible cases.
7 of 8
Marked Record
TI: Cosmeceuticals. A proposal for rational definition, evaluation, and
regulation [editorial 3
AU: Vermeer-BJ; GiIchrest-BA
SO: Arch-Dermatol. 1996 Mar; 132(3): 337-40
LA: ENGLISH
8 of 8
Marked Record
TI: The allergens of nail polish. (I). Allergenic constituents of common nail
palish and toluenesulfonamide—formaldehyde resin (TS-F-R).
AU: Hausen-BM; Milbrodt-M; Koenig-WA
AD: Department of Dermatology, University Hospital, Hamburg, Germany.
SO: Contact-Dermatitis. 1995 Sep; 33(3): 157-64
LA: ENGLISH
AB: Nail polish that has completely dried on the fingernails contains
water-soluble components that attain the skin during extensive but transient
contact. This was proven by water extraction of thin layers of nail polish that
had been painted onto glass plates and allowed to dry for 3 days. Comparing the
isolated fractions and compounds with known nail polish ingredients revealed
that the water—soluble substances are para- and ortho-toluenesulfonamide,
dibutyl phthalate and 3 constituents of toluenesu1fonamide-formaldehyds resin
(TS-F-R), which is the basic material of almost all nail polishes sold
worldwide. 12 female patients with proven nail polish allergy were patch tested
with 21 nail polish components, including those isolated. Gnly 2 fractions were
positive. These contained a monomer and a dimer created during condensation of
TS-F-R. Their structures were elucidated. The 3rd compound., a trimer, remained
negative, except in 1 case.
400 cerebral palsy patients. However,
the younger the child, the better,
because the muscles, joints and
ligaments stiffen with age and a
complete correction may not be
possible after Z Which is probably why
only 4 per cent ofJohari’s patients have
recovered completely, though the
others walk with support.
For older patients who require
surgery, doctors use Botox as an
interim treatment. Johari has used
Botox to treat patients as old as 25, but
it may not be effective ifthe condition
is severe. His patients have hardly had
any side-effects, except weakness for
some days and cramps.
Cerebral palsy is a condition where
muscles tighten as a result of damage
54 EES353 Apr 20,2003
to the part of the brain that controls
them. The damage may have occurred
because of premature birth, low birth
weight, insufficient growth or infection
to the mother during pregnancy. An
infection or a head injury during
infancy too may destroy brain cells.
Cerebral palsy may affect the child's
movements, memory, speech and
vision, and may cause learning
disorders, or spasticity.
Botox is derived from Clostridium
botulinum, a bacterium that causes
food poisoning; If used in small
amounts, botulinum type A toxin has
been found to provide relief for a
number of neurological disorders.
Though Botox was first tested and
approved in 1989 to treat
misalignment of eyes, it has been used
to make cosmetic corrections too.
Anjali Sreenivasan, a 35-year-old
marketing executive in Mumbai, has
been using Botox to remove her frown.
Says Mumbai-based cosmetic
physician Dr Usha Elizabeth George
who gave her the shots, “Botox may not
be long-lasting but it helps soften
unwanted facial lines—frown lines,
crows feet and lines on the forehead.”
“More than the look, it gave me a
personal boost,” says Anjali. “It cost me
less than Rs 5,000.” While one shot a
year is the recommended dosage for
cerebral palsy, Anjali got a second shot
in six months. “It works by relaxing
and paralysing the facial muscles,” says
Dr Malavika Kohli, consultant
wh->-
News YouCan Use
400 cerebral palsy patients. However,
the younger the child, the better,
because the muscles, joints and
ligaments stiffen with age and a
complete correction may not be
possible after 7. Which is probably why
only 4 per cent ofJohan’s patients have
recovered completely, though the
others walk with support.
For older patients who require
surgery, doctors use Botox as an
interim treatment. Johari has used
Botox to treat patients as old as 25, but
it may not be effective ifthe condition
is severe. His patients have hardly had
any side-effects, except weakness for
some days and cramps.
Cerebral palsy is a condition where
muscles tighten as a result of damage
54 SSEJE53 Al-s 20.2003
to the part of the brain that controls
them. The damage may have occurred
because of premature birth, low birth
weight, insufficient growth or infection
to the mother during pregnancy. An
infection or a head injury during
infancy too may destroy brain cells.
Cerebral palsy may affect the child’s
movements, memory, speech and
vision, and may cause learning
disorders, or spasticity.
Botox is derived from Clostridium
botulinum, a bacterium that causes
food poisoning. If used in small
amounts, botulinum type A toxin has
been found to provide relief for a
number of neurological disorders.
Though Botox was first tested and
approved in 1989 to treat
misalignment of eyes, it has been used
to make cosmetic corrections too.
Anjali Sreenivasan, a 35-year-old
marketing executive in Mumbai, has
been using Botox to remove her frown.
Says Mumbai-based cosmetic
physician Dr Usha Elizabeth George
who gave her the shots, ‘Botox may not
be long-lasting but it helps soften
unwanted facial lines—frown lines,
crows feet and lines on the forehead.”
“More than the look, it gave me a
personal boost,” says Anjali. “It cost me
less than Rs 5,000." While one shot a
year is the recommended dosage for
cerebral palsy, Anjali got a second shot
in six months. "It works by relaxing
and paralysing the facial muscles,” says
Dr Malavika Kohli, consultant
Counting on
Dracula
ROMANIA
omanians feel it is “time to put
Dracula to work” for the
country, but the most blood-curdling
experience might just be a fun horror
ride. Construction on a $30 million
Disneyland-style Dracula Park is
underway in Snagov, north of the
capital Bucharest, aimed at luring
tourists to the poor Balkan country.
Most Romanians know Prince
Vlad Tepes, who inspired Bram
Stoker’s blood-thirsty count in Count
Dracula, as a 15th century hero who
fought off Ottoman invaders and
defended Christendom until his
death in 1477. His headless body is
supposedly buried at a monastery in
the middle of Snagov lake, which is
now a UNESCO heritage building.
Romanians will now, however, begin to
capitalise on one ofits most recognisable
names made famous by Hollywood
movies. "It’s an original, nonconventional, even shocking project,”
said Tourism Minister Dan Matei
Agathon. ”1 want to use Dracula to
promote Romanian tourism.”
R
Cuddly cargo
MEMPHIS: Pilots flash toy pandas
from the FedEx Panda One flight
(right), which transported four-yearold Le Le and two-year-old Ya Ya
from Beijing. The pandas are on a 10year loan to the Memphis zoo. The
courier company renamed and
painted the jet (top) in panda
elements for the trans-Pacific flight.
Not just child’s play
TOKYO: The Japanese got down to the serious business of haring
fun on the 50th birthday of cartoon character Astro Boy. Hiroko
Nakayama, mayor of Tokyo’s Shinjuku ward, named the character
its “ambassador for the future”. Hundreds of Japanese queued up
at Takadanobaba Post Office, which marked the day by stamping
a picture of a flying Astro Boy on letters and
cards. Some kids dressed up for look-alike
contests.
But for one Tokyo department store, it
was not just fun and games. They honoured
the cartoon character with a one million yen
($13.87 million) statue, decorated with white
and black diamonds, rubies, emerald and
gold. After his comic book debut in 1951,
Astro Boy was the star of Japan’s first
domestically-produced television cartoon
show in the early 1960s, and endeared
himself to another generation with the
broadcast of a second series in colour in the
early 1980s.
Social animals
. SOUTH AFRICA
hen a herd of elephants encircled an
enclosure, the conservation team which
built the camp to house antelopes thought the
pachyderms were after the antelope feed. But
the herd’s matriarch, named Nana, began
tampering with the metal latches of the
enclosure till it came free and let loose the
antelopes.
A private game capture company in the
east coast of Empangeni had rounded up the
antelopes to relocate them for a breeding
programme. Park officials were settling in for
the night when the herd of 11 elephants
approached. Nana carefully undid all the
latches with her trunk, swung the gate open
and stood back with her herd, allowing the
antelopes to flee. The herd then walked off
into the night. “Elephants are naturally
inquisitive," ecologist Brendon WhittingtonJones said, “but this behaviour is certainly
most unusual and cannot be explained in
scientific terms.”
W
Ars 20,2003 SEEEZ33 5S
Botox therapy
r~
i
I Side-effects
First used and approved in 1989
to treat misalignment of eyes,
botulinum toxin has been found
useful in the treatment of a
.
I
I
I
number of neurological
rKcnnrfnne Tha marfinma la
AN
injected in small doses into
specific muscles.
1
i
/
acetylcholine, which plays a vital
role in sending messages from the
1
nerves to the muscles. The toxin
blocks the signals that tell your
“
1
J
'Botulinum works by blocking the
Release of the neurotransmitter
ii
l'
muscle to contract
Relief is not long-lasting;
the nerve-muscle
communication is reestablished in six to
|
eight months.
S
: Weakness in the
muscles being
treated
Drooping of the
eyelids, for
instance, when
used to treat
involuntary
closure of eyelids
4 Flu-like symptoms,
though rare
Nausea
1
Graphics/N.V. JOSE
dermatologist and cosmetologist at
Mumbai's Jaslok Hospital. “It has a
magical effect in a non-invasive way
with minimum discomfort.”
A single sitting requires not more
than 20 minutes and the result is there
within 36 hours. “Generally film stars
and corporate personalities go for it,”
says Kohli. “Women use it to retain
their youthful looks. Botox is also used
to treat excessive sweating of palms
and underarms.”
This is perhaps why Hollywood
stars take the shots before award
ceremonies. In the US alone, about
8,50,000 people took Botox injections
in 2001 for cosmetic reasons.
Bollywood is not far behind. A beauty'
queen-turned-actress used Botox to
One sitting may cost
between Rs 5,000 and
Rs 18,000 depending on the
dosage, says Dr Malavika
Kohli of Mumbai.
smoothen her forehead. “It gives her a
very plastic look,” says a Mumbai
cosmetologist.
However, it can lead to arching
eyebrows or drooping eyelids if not
administered properly. So, as Kohli
says, get the therapy done by a trained
physician, who would identify the
exact points to be treated. Side-effects
such as headache are temporary. Says
Kohli, “Out of 50 patients, only one
complained of flu.”
Dr Apurba Ghosh of Kolkata has,
however, noticed side-effects in his
cerebral palsy patients. There can be
an excessive weakness in the muscle
injected,” say's Ghosh, professor of
paediatrics at the Institute of Child
Health. “In less severe cases an over
correction causing functional
problems is a possibility. Mild fatigue
is occasional."
Botox is expensive at Rs 15,000 for
a 100-unit vial. While a 6-year-old
with cerebral palsy, weighing 20 kg,
may need one vial, 40 units are the
maximum that can be used for facial
corrections. “One sitting may cost
between Rs 5,000 and Rs 18,000,
depending on the dosage,” says Kohli.
The cost factor has discouraged many
from going for it, says Ghosh, who has
been using Botox to treat cerebral
palsy for the past two years.
“Botox should be accompanied by
physiotherapy,” says Dr Sukanto
Chatterjee, head of paediatric
department at the Calcutta Medical
College and Hospital. “Not even Botox
can guarantee a cure for cerebral palsy.
So the child should be trained in
personal tasks and given some
vocational training as well.”
Botox is used to treat other
muscular conditions such as migraines
and spasms of the neck muscles. It
also helps overcome problems of the
muscles of the food pipe, pain after
shingles and low back pain. However,
pregnant and lactating women are
usually told to avoid it. So are children
on therapy for chronic ailments
because long-term effects of receiving
regular Botox shots are yet to be
determined.
®
Forecast (A 20-27)
pril
By K. K. VAMANAN NAMPOOTHIRI
Being generous, dignified and of a good
constitution, you stand to gain success in all
your attempts. A promotion, good relation
ship with officers and financial gains are on
the cards. You may undertake successful
and prosperous travels. You may change
jobs and a marriage may be fixed through
advertisements. Gains through business,
agriculture or estate are indicated.
Your diplomatic talk will take you places.
You will not hesitate to adapt ifthe situation
demands it. The eligible will get married.
Business partners will be helpful. A particu
larly ambitious partner will be beneficial.
Your social life will take off. You will be for
tunate in all you do. Your keen intuition will
come in handy. Students will go for higher
education. Those abroad will taste success.
Success in medicine, chemistry or the occult
is possible. It will be good time for invest
ments and as a matter of fact, luck will be
with you in any occupation. Favour from
women, elders or higher officials is indi
cated. You will have a good adviser and take
wise decisions. Increase in power and pres
tige is likely. Married life will be smooth.
Stomach ailments are likely.
Strange thoughts will plague you. Success in
enterprise will bring you wealth. You will
beat enemies. A hard worker, you will profit
through service, chemistry, medicine, hos
pitals. insurance, and wood or sanitary
business. A promotion awaits you and^ou
will realise your ambition. You will make
new friends. However, you will be involved
in scandals. It is not good for children.
You will be reliable and affectionate. Fond
of pleasure, music and the arts, you will
have a roaring social life. You will be fortu
nate and successful. Jewels, expensive
clothes, and gains through parents or land
come your way. Domestic life will be great
You might move house and acquire a ve
hicle. Your connection with people in powrer
will lead to unexpected gains.
This is a good week for the enterprising. You
may be promoted; gains also come your way
through iron and steel, timber and chemi
cals, cinema and speculation. You will in
herit a legacy. You will enjoy domestic bliss
and will be a hit on the social scene. Public
figures will have a good week. Fame and
recognition await you. Some of you may
change your business or profession.
Your popularity will soar. You will travel a
lot and will enjoy good health. You will earn
through land, mines, estate and newspa
pers. An increase in income is likely. You
will be honoured and will receive more au
thority. Businessmen and politicians will do
well. The unemployed will find jobs. This is
a wreek for passion and romance: you might
just end up marrying hastily.
You are ambitious and assertive this week.
You will gain property. You will be victori
ous in elections. You may acquire land,
wealth orjewels. Voyages and a stay in a for
eign land are likely. You will be promoted or
get more responsibility. Business ventuiO
will take off. This is a good week for stu^
dents, research scientists, writers, journal
ists and teachers.
You are imaginative and versatile this week.
You will find success in public affairs. Book
lovers will have many a fascinating read.
Look out to gain from land and politics. You
will be charged up at. work and will do
things well. You are likely to win lawsuits.
You will be charitable. Friends will be pleas
ant. Gains through your mother or other
ladies are indicated.
Bold and creative, you will command re
spect and be honoured. A good time for
agencies. This is the right time, to travel for
important purposes. Your administrative
capabilities will stand you in good stead.
Those in love will spend more time with
each other. Some of you may go off to sum
mer resorts. Those interested in occult sci
ences will be able to pursue your interests.
You have a fertile imagination and you will
use it to get some novelty in your life. Ajour
ney is on the cards. Your ability' for planning
will help you reap profits in business.
Teachers, writers, painters and journalists
will have a good week. You will pep up your
lifestyle by buying luxury items or a vehicle.
Superiors will take note of your pleasing
manners. Colleagues will be cooperative.
Your hard work will be acknowledged; some
ofyou may even be promoted. You stand to
gain through government, partnerships or
agriculture. The money’ will start to flow in
and you will be popular among friends. You
will acquire land or a vehicle. The eligible
will get married. However, you might land
in hot water due to misappropriation of
public funds.
56 EEZZ33 Apr 20, 2003
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